Day 55 – Siem Reap Cambodia to Sa Nion Thailand - Fri 19 Apr

Day 55 – Siem Reap Cambodia to Sa Nion Thailand - Fri 19 Apr
Very humid morning, with mosquitoes at breakfast – a reminder to start anti-malaria tablets in readiness for Laos. We had left our final items in hotel room whilst we were eating, but in our absence GirlRob's backpack had been emptied, kangaroo mascot removed – retrieval was a painful item by item process (we tired of the game first). Left in darker mood than our arrival. Cheered up when a man at fruit stall asked "What's in back? You got kangaroos in there??" Haha. Open, unfenced land at extremities of Wats looked inviting for camping but Guy and Cheryl were told "snakes at night" (meaning bad people, unsafe). 

The road north to small border crossing after Anlong Veng was in better condition than most other roads in Cambodia. Lots of timber cutting/ hauling. At border town, almost missed inconspicuous sign leading to Pol Pot’s cremation site.

Crossed back into Thailand at small border post at Choem (details will be posted elsewhere!) Over two hours they learnt on us how to export-import vehicles! It’s only a drive through the north of the country this time, leapfrogging into Laos tomorrow. T’was nice though to be back to LHD and thankfully more conservative drivers (well, relatively speaking). Drove through two police blocks (boy soldiers with semi-automatic rifles) more interested in seeing truck than papers; BoyRob took his life in his hands when he squirted the leader with the outdoor shower! Fortunately (almost) everyone laughed....

Ah, back in Thailand - better roads, gardens - and smoke! Scarecrows/ crude hangers out front of places as pass through Lalom all wearing red shirts (supporting political faction).

Turned towards Ubon Ratchhathani, past Huai Ta Mai Reservoir and its fishing boats, islands and navigational bamboo poles in water. Rich volcanic soils, recent harvest of cassava and new plantings. Much more developed agricultural industry compared to more subsistence Cambodia - tractors, harvesters, tilling machinery etc. heaps more cars than motor. Chose campsite on a flat overlooking rice paddies with a border of gum trees; broke off branch to take smell with us...

Day 54 – Outside Siem Reap - Thurs 18 Apr

Day 54 – Outside Siem Reap - Thurs 18 Apr
Drove up past Wats – stopped to watch women and children making rice dough (for noodles to sell) using fulcrum on a log to soften dough. 

 
Next on to silk farm, mulberry tree plantation and factory. Silkworm cocoons in Cambodia are yellow, rather than the white thread of the ones GirlRob grew in her childhood in Oz. A spinner could weave half a metre a day, a jacquard patterned scarf in 4 days, which sells for US$120; working 6 days a week she earns $60 month.

  











We looped down to Tonle Sap and took a longtail boat (with fuel in a plastic bottle) to see the floating village.  Lake very low in dry season so had great fun on boats sliding closely past and ducking each other’s mud spray to share narrow channel. Saw bamboo dry dock, floating basketball court, church, hardware store. Boat beggars came alongside, parents pushing forward a child with a snake, a woman pleading for a toddler clutched to her.

Chad our guide and his younger sister were orphaned when mother died and father remarried. Went to live with grandmother and attended floating orphanage school. Most were orphaned in great typhoon several years ago which killed hundreds of the fisherman who were out on lake. Chad is studying mathematics in Siem Reap in mornings, fishes for income in arvos, sometimes guides the boats. When he graduates he will teach as a volunteer at his old school, which is now supported by Vietnam Catholic Church. We were finally able to do our good deed for Khmer New Year by contributing rice to the orphanage school. A long, but satisfying day.

Day 53 - Around Angkor Wat - Wed 17 Apr

Day 53 - Around Angkor Wat - Wed 17 Apr

The Wanderoos toured many of the Wats by Mr Lak's tuk tuk. He lives with his brother, has 5 month baby, comes from village "far away 34 kms", reasonable English learned at primary school. His family lost members in Pol Pot regime and mother had no money for school, so he had to work - started in security but not enough money there.
Some ruins are not only well preserved but there are several funded reconstruction projects
It was very humid walking around ruins, ducking under sunken columns, up steep stairs as storm approached.

Angkor Wat (first half 12^th century) architectural masterpiece, astonishingly well preserved and maintained

           

Angkor Thom – Bayon complex (latter 12^th century) Impressive guardians of the bridge over the moat, 200 large faces on 54 towers (one with spider web teardrop); and elephant terrace

In a downpour, had lunch at Mr Lak’s "sister in law restaurant stall no. 9" - coconut milk drink, Amok chicken (its GirlRob’s new favourite!); had to navigate pools of muddy water rest of afternoon ("mud follow you Cambodia", referring to way thongs flip mud up back of legs as you walk)

Taprohm (Buddhist monastery complex) stands out because of the tree roots entwined with ruins; Sralao tree looks like it has been painted in gold.

Suddenly came across band of landmine amputees with prosthesis removed – so shocking, a donation seems so little. 

We would have enjoyed browsing at markets surrounding all the Wats, but we couldn't stand pesky, whining women and children touching us, constantly darting in front and blocking the way, trying to sell postcards, Tshirts  bracelets, scarves, guide and history books. Everything is offered at twice or three times price at first. Much of the information on street kids says not to give money because it perpetuates the way of life and keeps kids away from school.

Dinner at night markets in Pub Street, "maam - fish massage?", ice cream with no discernible flavour difference between colours. This is first time we’ve been bothered by kids begging in street – they see begging either as a way of life or a game. Play-time has never seemed so sad…