Day 83: Dyrholaey Nature Reserve to Sandgerti - Sun 27 July

Day 83: Dyrholaey Nature Reserve to Sandgerti - Sun 27 July
Walked cliff plateau, past lighthouse, settling in to do some bird-spotting for arctic terns, guillemots, fulmars, razorbills - but most of all puffins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Better success on beach below perpendicular cliffs, with natural arch from which sounds of great bird flocks echoed. From rocks watched entertaining puffins diving and coming up with beaks full of fish. Could see down into clear water - with wings outstretched they looked like they were flying in depths. Saw seal cruising same waters amongst the kelp. 

Still hoping to get closer than this to see puffins up close....

On ring road, stopped to look at Skogafoss, then on to 60m Seljalandsfoss waterfall, so much fun getting wet walking into grotto behind it!

 














Back on road, passed Mt Hecla volcano in distance. Decision made to change itinerary - will do Golden Circle of Gulfoss, Geysir/ Stokkur, and Pingellir National Park when we do the inland road, so on to Reykjanes Peninsula today. Spotted first signs of geothermal activity, steam venting from ground in several old lava fields - then came across steam power station and above-ground pipes. Drove past city of Reykjavik for now, miles of uninhabitable flat lava plains, past old US radar stations at Keflavik, and pulled up early at Sandgerti Stellplatz Park for night. Had to phone for caretaker to come and unlock laundry - spent next 5 hours washing sheets, towels, clothes and hair whilst BoyRob cooked fish for dinner - a chore that became unpleasant as the rain and wind gusts started. Repositioning vehicle and securing awning finally sufficed to get meal cooked! Stored unpacked groceries and sorted out raincoats, parkas and vests used in last few days’ water and ice adventures which had not dried out enough for storage. Sandgerdi is a flat barren cold place but a nice park and amenities which served to get chores done. 

 











We had talked to ranger at volcanoes yesterday who told us more about the road closure at the stratovolcano Askja. Apparently a whole piece of mountain fell off onto tourist area (fortunately at midnight when deserted!). This is where astronauts trained to go to moon, and we wanted to see it. The ranger says the area is stabilised and reopened to public. So we looked at our maps, Lonely Planet and original itinerary, matching against time left to rejig plan to fit in our off-road trip through middle of Iceland. Will have to give up some of the Western and Eastern fjords, but figured it's the type of countryside we have already seen.