Day 18 - Satopy to Suwalki - Fri 23 May

Day 18 - Satopy to Suwalki - Fri 23 May
Driving through Great Masurian Lakes – over 2000 filling from glaciers. Storks abound.

If I find the stork who left these twins...

 









Arrived early at Swieta Lipka to see stunning 17th century Baroque church, with its dancing angels on organ when it is played. 

 








 

Masurian embroidery handed down by mothers 

 












Passed Ketrzyn to our destination for day – Wolf’s Lair. Obviously Hitler’s hideaway was chosen for its key geographic locale - any further north and we would be in Russia. Took the hour’s walk through Gierloz woods – the Masurian Lakes a natural obstacle for unfriendly forces. Encampment had been surrounded by minefields (glad we didn’t think of free camping here last night), along with four road exits, railway plus airfield - plenty of strategic ingress/egress. We read that the road was also covered in camouflage tenting. Now it’s only ruins of bunkers and storerooms used by Hitler, and the leaders of his forces - Goring, Bormann and Keitel. Stood at site of failed 20 July 1944 assassination attempt by consortium of generals led by von Stauffenberg. Most of the bunkers and buildings were blown up later by liberation armies, Hitler’s bunker (aptly numbered 13) was split asunder.
 

 












Lunched at Gizycko by Lake Niegocin. Unlike Australia, in most places you can’t get down to lakes - owned privately, gated entry (even to hotels and restaurants). Heaps of shirtless men and sunburnt people enjoying today's temp of 29º. Strong winds, good for the plentiful wind turbines. Lush green dairy country, no unused land except small woods. Arrived Suwalki mid arvo looking for camp ground with washing machine. Tourist info pointed us to pristine AquaPark, but all locked up (fortunately - it would have cost fortune!). Drove out to Wigry national park, camp ground attached to boutique hotel let GirlRob do washing upstairs in their attic three floors up. Helpful daughter (home from school sick), one of so few Poles who smiled! Sailboats, dinghys, buoys, smoke oven, wood for fire pit, fish grillers, log seats, small deck - little piece of heaven these folks have. Pretty colours as sun set, swan gliding silently on pink water reflecting evening sky. Very tranquil sitting outside.

Day 17 – Sopot/G’Dansk to Satopy – Thurs 22 May

Day 17 – Sopot/G’Dansk to Satopy – Thurs 22 May

Showered in Ozzie’s lovely hot water. Treated to magnificent, uplifting operatic choir practicing in nearby music institute. Parked in Sopot to walk out on Poland's longest pier, marching band and carnival atmosphere. Did not feel safe in unattended parking lot, quite a few homeless people wandering, so gave up idea of exploring yet another Old Town.
 

Baltic version of fun for kids

Black faced gull - SO cute

Who needs a shop??

Gdansk highly industrialised, huge cranes on port, massive ferries, graffiti, traffic gridlock, not at all as romantic as imagined. Air full of dust -pollen from trees in brisk breeze. Drove out past Ehlbeg through agricultural areas, insects hit windscreen hard like stones. Plenty of solo storks in stick nests. Off motorway to Road 153 across north-east Poland, Paslek, Orneta, Lidsbark Warminski, Bisztynek - whole road seemed under repair at same time (hopefully employment for all little towns??) Tiring afternoon waiting for interminable red lights with only one lane open. 
 












Finally drove into more forested area and found a secluded clearing off road to camp for night. Little brown frogs and birds serenaded us for dinner (sat inside because of March flies and big, light but bloodthirsty mosquitoes). Wild boar passed by us at sunset – magic!

Day 16 - Warsaw to Elblag, Gdansk and Sopot - Wed 21 May

Day 16 - Warsaw to Elblag, Gdansk and Sopot - Wed 21 May
Cool morning but warmed up quickly with sun. Floods still evident. Driving to Gdansk today through usual heavy traffic, continuous road works adding to congestion. Remembered with gratitude yesterday’s fast, plentiful, clean trams and buses. 

Thatched roof - how do they mow it??

Stopped at McDs but wifi slow - grrr. Supermarket doors open but not yet launched, same as another roadside restaurant yesterday. Appears to be a recent flurry of investment accompanying civil infrastructure upgrades. Police are active along highway today, small vehicles and motorbikes. Stork energetically cleaning her nest - so funny! Ate late salad lunch along Elblag canal, between two opening bridges.

Ozzie hits "shady" side of Elblag

 










Arrived Sopot to join end of business day traffic. Went looking for Camping 19, found what we thought was it, and pulled in on lawn behind student residence alongside another motor home. Then found the men's toilet locked and no hot water. Caretaker ran around looking helpless and in the end nothing was fixed. Walked down through small woods (ducking across lanes of speedy roller bladers and cyclists) to beach on Baltic Sea, heaps of active people enjoying the late afternoon sunshine. Dinner of pasta and red cabbage. Found we were back to back with the actual caravan park! Oh well, settled in now, may as well stay...

Day 15 - Around Warsaw -Tues 20 May

Day 15 - Around Warsaw -Tues 20 May
Caught bus into Old Town - fascinating few hours wandering. In the Holy Cross church old ladies kept pointing out Pope John Paul II icons, paintings, designer alters - the Catholic Poles are certainly proud of "their" pope! One altar was dedicated to those killed in Warsaw Uprising - there was a photo exhibition in square.

Bullet holes in one of rescued paintings

 

Saw changing of guard at Palace, lots of dignatories in suits, noisy police entourage accompanying President of Slovakia on visit to palace. 

all services represented  

double curtain walls of Barbican

 

 











Barbican - circular fortress. Jan Kilinski monument (shoemaker who led C18 Kosciuszko (!) uprising). Listened to baroque organ at St Anne's, quite funereal. Painter touching up frescoes looked like he was using a paint-by-numbers palette. 

  
Open-air wood carvers, art students, people lounging in recliners on river “beach” enjoying what must be rare sunshine. Lots of school students in Market Square (loved the littlies on excursion in their high viz vests!) Kids must spend 1 hr outdoors day whatever weather.... 

Cm'on - just 5 more minutes off...

Heard legend of basilisk who guarded treasures and turned everyone who looked at him to stone until a wandering tailor held up mirror and turned himself to stone, ending his reign of terror. Exchanged euros for zlotys so had money to spend, lunched on Sangria and Hungarian pork pancakes swimming in sauce. Saw St Casimirs church, walked past the Basilica of Martyrdom of St John Baptist (there’s just so many churches you can fit in one day), and King Zygmunt III Waza Column.

We decided to give our feet a rest and took the open-top bus tour, saw the Right Bank, modern Warsaw, heard of famous Polish hospitality (must be only if you visit their homes – retailers are certainly not the most friendly). The Warsaw Uprising Monument and Supreme Court flashed by, but just had to alight at Palace of Science and Culture – a gift to city by the Soviets, and surely one of the ugliest buildings in world! 

Shopped at Carrefors, then somehow got separated at bus station amongst the going-home commuter traffic. We were very proud of ourselves however, when we each made it back safely to the camping ground. But we did have to have a drink after that!