Day 74 - Oudom Xay to Boten - 8 May 2013

Day 74 - Oudom Xay to Boten - 8 May 2013
Didn't rain overnight, stayed cool, lovely light breeze; woke to roosters crowing the sunrise over mountains. Headed off to border crossing town of Boten, passing racks of noodles drying in sun. “Chain gangs” clearing countryside on steep inclines using hoes and machetes. Novel  method to announce road blockage ahead - branches laid along road.

Stopped at Ban Nambotakay for Phil and Mads to deliver literacy books. Poor wooden school with slats, dirty kids in threadbare clothes. Very shy female teacher, took time to understand we were giving them books as a gift. Kids hid at cameras at first, but showed them pictures of themselves on the viewfinder and gradually thawed, posed, then became animated and boisterous at the visitors. Gratifying experience.

Evidence that Chinese constructed road to border, significantly better construction, joint Chinese and Lao flags and signs re infrastructure projects, Chinese trucks and cemetery. Completed 2139 kms in Laos, and total trip of 9354kms to date! 

As our group had gone in three different directions to complete their Laos experience, we had agreed to meet in Boten at least by the evening if 8 May ready to cross the next morning to meet our China guide Andy - however 5km south of Boten, we three vehicles came to Customs checkpoint. Quick check of either green paper or stamp of carnet and we were suddenly through, but then came to Immigration so went no further. Camped in front of 3 story hotel or shopping centre that was never completed. Bought carton of Chinese beer for $6 – taste test later! Guy and Cheryl arrived at dusk, gave GirlRob a bright striped, long hat made by Lao hilltribe people and face mask. So cool! Jon and Jude turned up next, Jude most unwell, but giving book on Steve Irwin – a beaut birthday, eh? The Robs and Jon went to dinner at "restaurant", but half way through found the chicken had feet in it... 

Day 73 – Luang Prabang to outskirts of Oudom Xay - Tues 7 May

Day 73 – Luang Prabang to outskirts of Oudom Xay - Tues 7 May
Happy Birthday GirlRob! LOVED all the emails and Facebook notes from family and friends!!
Bought our last French baguette from a stall to have for lunch along the way – with chicken, avocado, cheese, lettuce and cucumber, it was the Asian equivalent of Subway.
Drove north, leaving Mekong behind. Poor road full of deep potholes, bitumen almost gone in many places; turnoff west to cross Oudom Xay mountain range (BoyRob says he's changed gears so many times he thinks he's done a hamstring...)

Said hello to boys carrying heavy loads of sugarcane in bags with straps around forehead.

Phil and Mads were looking for primary school to give kids book package they bought in Luang Prabang, Big Brother literacy project. Saw huge numbers of kids walking home from school at midday, must be enormous size school in this village. Kids looked too well dressed so drove on. Horses (first seen) in ridge village. One village totally full of pigs, so fat their teats brush the ground when waddling, baby pigs running everywhere. Also saw animal like fox (civet?) hanging up by tail for dinner. Came to end of mountain crossing at Houaylin and turned north for border; vehicle travelling well.

Camped in service station complex, on oh-so-rare-lawn (!!) in front of unoccupied owner’s house beside it. BoyRob made bacon carbonara for dinner, celebrated birthday at village of Houaylin Laos with candle on slice of chocolate cake shared between six of us – a pleasant evening to sit outside. Bonus gift - hot shower worked beautifully.

Day 71 and 72 – In and around Luang Prabang - Sun 5 and Mon 6 May

Day 71 and 72 – In and around Luang Prabang - Sun 5 and Mon 6 May

Happy Mother’s Day! Celebrated by visiting Kuang Si waterfall and swimming in its icy cold water. Bonus to find the Rescue Centre and its Asian black bears in the national park.  Watched bear in hammock defending spot from a would-be interloper.   

Next morning made the effort to get out of the comfy hotel bed at daybreak to view the alms giving procession to monks, then on to fascinating morning food markets: live sparrows in tiny cages (buy to eat/keep/or set free!) live fish in tanks, cockroaches, crickets, frogs (all still live), fruit, vegies, pork and poultry.

Guy and Cheryl left Monday for one last Laos National Park, the rest of us will leave tomorrow to meet with our fifth member Jon and Jude and to have our final pow-wow before crossing the Chinese border to meet our guide. 

Day 70- Phou Koune to Luang Prabang - Sat 4 May

Day 70- Phou Koune to Luang Prabang - Sat 4 May
Early morning electrical storm, windy but no trouble for vehicle. Kids came for another look, but all family gone when I dropped off bag of groceries, beer and stickers inside unlocked door of granny's house. Magnificent views over mountains with clouds below tops. 

Road to Luang Prabang high mountains, low valleys and sheer drops, some cleared/ burnt with sleeping huts perched precariously. Families living life in full view, picking out nits, splitting bamboo into strips, laying out grain to dry, working on bikes, walking out with empty baskets to bring back food, boy with bird destined for pot. Nice to see our first eagle/ hawk circling over valley, and high peaks south of Xiang Ngeun. A lucky day - saw a working elephant on the road. Slow going, 90kms in 3 hours, nevertheless we will remember this amazing stretch of road always.

 

 










Stopped for lunch at weighbridge, told to move on.  Met rest of crew at Phousi Hotel and then set out to explore the old town with its French architecture, signage, patisserie/ baguettes, peninsula wats (Wat Sop Sickharam; Vatmay Souvannapoumaram), life on Mekong, riverside restaurants, ginger torch flowers, pétanque (form of boules where the goal is to throw hollow metal balls as close as possible to small wooden ball called piglet/jack). Walked interesting Hmong Night Markets with Cheryl, silk, traditional dress, Natia village war spoons, lanterns, Tshirts and handicrafts.