Day 69 - Phonsavan to Phou Koune - Fri 3 May

Day 69 - Phonsavan to Phou Koune - Fri 3 May
Woke to cattle bell nearby, cow bringing her herd to graze on our borrowed patch of grass. Left after sweet yoghurt on muesli, off to site #2 of Plain of Jars. This one was steep, and in a pine forest – we enjoyed the springy needle carpet underfoot as we climbed up to high point to see bomb craters, old trenches and battlements. Strange not to find signs explaining history or memorials - Laotians are yet to develop tourism.

By midday we were on road back to turnoff to Luang Prabang – slow going with switchbacks, turns, crests, following ridge line, stopping for children, cattle, workers, motorbikes, passing trucks on narrow bends (why don't these ridge dwellers choose less formidable inclines?) Water flowing through split bamboo pipes from side of mountain to a collection point -probably very clean. Communal well enclosed by wooden fence. One toddler pouring water over another in a wide tin bath. Side of rock wall looked like it had been whipper-snippered but turned corner to see middle aged couple scything a side of road each... 

  

Ban Sem Kong ridge village, little boys jumped up and waved with huge grins. BoyRob gave them our left over Thai coins. Older kids on way home from school trudging up steep hill home, most smile and wave when they see truck. Dressed neatly in white blouses and traditional pencil skirt with embroidered border, boys in white shirts and black pants - always look clean (although poorer families clothes quite threadbare/ muddy). Asians wear hats of every kind, wide rimmed sunhats, pith helmets, woven conical hats, Argentinian cowboys hats, elaborate native headdresses, beanies, caps, berets, tam o’shanters, hats with ears, scarves, material with matching face mask and neck scarf, even jackets/ towels worn on head etc. 

Arrived back at "our" quarry, even rocks we had placed there night before last to even-up vehicle were in same place. GirlRob went to take photos of magnificent mountain view, and boys from local school going by on motorbike stopped to ask questions, ending up requesting their photo taken. In meantime women and girls from huts on precipice came out on stoop to watch and giggled-ending up having their photos taken as well and everyone having a look on viewfinder to see themselves. Moved on past granny's hut where she was collecting reeds from mountainside and tying them together. She also had her photo taken and examined it closely. Not long after we had pulled out tables, chairs and stove a couple of boys came (not too close) each pushing other forward to say hello. GirlRob scrambled for kangaroo stickers for each hand and ice was broken. Two girls were called over for their stickers and ran off presumably to show family. The boys hung around looking at the food cooking so BoyRob offered a biscuit - each took half a dozen! An angry sounding Dad called them but they both hid in the quarry until all the biscuits were gone before going home. Not the nicest reminder of the haves and the have-nots...