Today was our tour of selected chateaux in Loire Valley. Took a taxi to
Tourist Centre, picked up in minivan, driven to:
Amboise: “smallest” chateaux of day, despite its castle-like appearance this royal residence is situated in a charming setting, built up overlooking old town and river. Leonardo da Vinci is buried there in St Hubert’s Chapel.
Chenenceau: Known as "Women's Castle". Dianne de Poitiers, mistress to Henry II was installed there first, she designed huge formal garden, but was thrown out on King's demise by wife Catherine de Medici who then ruled, extended chateaux out over river to add ballrooms and threw great parties. "White queen", wife of Henry III, also lived there in mourning after his murder in all-black bedroom, black feathers, surrounded by nuns who were summarily despatched back to their convent after her death. Rubens and Van Dyck's on walls. Magnificent long gallery and chateaux were made for gorgeous reflections in still Cher River. Prolific sculpted and market gardens. Donkeys with St Andrew’s Cross.
Chambord: Hurault private family still operated (not royalty), beautifully maintained. Petit Salon holds 5 Flemish tapestries. Grand Apartments are lavishly decorated, Paris tapestries illustrating story of Ulysses, including children's toys, jewellery cases, austere gardens, hunting dogs (approx. 70) used weekly in extensive forested grounds. The Belgian comic book creator Hergé used Chambord as a model for his fictional "Château de Moulinsart" (Marlinspike Hall) in The Adventures of Tintin books, and there is a mini-museum on site.
Amboise: “smallest” chateaux of day, despite its castle-like appearance this royal residence is situated in a charming setting, built up overlooking old town and river. Leonardo da Vinci is buried there in St Hubert’s Chapel.
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| Location, location, location... |
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| St Hubert's Chapel |
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| da Vinci's resting place |
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| Antlers on the steeple... |
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| ...and a gargoyle not meant to be missed... |
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| Ancient plumbing |
Chenenceau: Known as "Women's Castle". Dianne de Poitiers, mistress to Henry II was installed there first, she designed huge formal garden, but was thrown out on King's demise by wife Catherine de Medici who then ruled, extended chateaux out over river to add ballrooms and threw great parties. "White queen", wife of Henry III, also lived there in mourning after his murder in all-black bedroom, black feathers, surrounded by nuns who were summarily despatched back to their convent after her death. Rubens and Van Dyck's on walls. Magnificent long gallery and chateaux were made for gorgeous reflections in still Cher River. Prolific sculpted and market gardens. Donkeys with St Andrew’s Cross.
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| Chenenceau Chateux with original keep in foreground |
Chambord: Hurault private family still operated (not royalty), beautifully maintained. Petit Salon holds 5 Flemish tapestries. Grand Apartments are lavishly decorated, Paris tapestries illustrating story of Ulysses, including children's toys, jewellery cases, austere gardens, hunting dogs (approx. 70) used weekly in extensive forested grounds. The Belgian comic book creator Hergé used Chambord as a model for his fictional "Château de Moulinsart" (Marlinspike Hall) in The Adventures of Tintin books, and there is a mini-museum on site.
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| The tapestry of life.... |
Cheverny: massive size, calling into question differences between a chateaux (residence/ showcase of wealth and power) and a castle (fortifications/protection). Cheverny is most known for da Vinci's double helix staircase. Lucky Boomers saw a beautiful owl in belltower at top. Walked balcony promenade. Shell of a royal manor really, not at all liveable, rooms enormous, impossibly high ceilings, structure couldn't be heated, draughty in winter, and full of mosquitoes in summer. Used mainly as hunting lodge.
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| Walking up.... |
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| Looking down.... |
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| Bedroom in a cupboard... |
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| Stove takes whole room... |
Our return driver was unbelievable, one hand on wheel, earpiece for mobile (which rang incessantly 1.5hr trip back), other hand turning pages to dates, writing details of next tours, playing with another phone to look at dates. And then had audacity to seem disappointed he didn't get a tip! Entrance fees to all venues were discounted as we were in a group; lunch did not turn out to be included in price, but we still saved 50€ on internet tour. All agreed it was worth it not to have to find directions, drive, park or wait in queues (not that there were the great crowds of high season)
Dinner at restaurant over road from caravan park,at table overlooking river, lovely to watch sun go down thru trees and midnight blues reflected between sky and river. Chef opened up early for us (local red wine too sweet and light though) escargot casserole, crab terrine and perfect pannacotta sweets.
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