Day 103: Wanzhou to Fenjie
and Wushan – Thurs 6 Jun 2013
Greetings to
the new day - light rain and no colour in the sky (so pollution bank is not
dispelled by rain then??). Departed for Zangfei Temple at Fengjie in rain, misty
clouds in valley (you CAN tell white mist from grey pollution!) Travelled
through tunnels, on high spanned bridges overlooking large towns in valleys
below. Paid highest road toll to date Y183. Called into pier to find out cruise
prices, but had to search out travel agents in town itself – but they only offered
3 day cruises on Yangze, more time than the group can spare.
Zangfei Temple was amazingly picturesque on fortified island in midst of river, and connected by walking bridge and pavilions, but we baulked at paying Y120pp to see temple, plus the aggressive stall owners were quite off-putting.
Zangfei Temple was amazingly picturesque on fortified island in midst of river, and connected by walking bridge and pavilions, but we baulked at paying Y120pp to see temple, plus the aggressive stall owners were quite off-putting.
Farewelled Fenjie, crossed wide muddy Yangtze on way to Wushan - maybe we'll find 1 day options for three gorges/ hydrofoil to dam wall there. Entered 7.9km tunnel - longest yet.
Wushan is modern new town, obviously taking business from neighbouring (and depressed) Fengjie. Old Town is now under water since dam was put in and river flooded.
Arrived 12.50pm at wharf on Daning Lake; offered cruise for 1.00pm - grabbed lunch and backpacks and ran. Spent next 5 hours on crowded boat, sailed under red Dragon Gate Bridge, noisy with announcements, shouting commentary, yelling photographer jollying his customers one by one through booming microphone as they “held up” mountains & bridges.
Typical Chinese Tourists |
Past Dongoing Lake, through the Lesser Three Gorges, along muddy river, with outdoor stalactites.
Changed to smaller boats to go through Mini Three Gorges (yes don’t be confused folks!). Sadly we inherited another (very serious) guide with booming voice and microphone, warning about the legendary ape-man, a scary Yeti type creature – but when wafting bagpipe music wafted down from the rock walls even the Chinese giggled behind their hands! He told a sob story about the poor people of the gorges, then took up a collection - then tried to sell key rings by giving them out for free first, then coming by with a purse next! For the finale, he burst into song! The Gorge Karaoke was too much for GirlRob who collapsed in (mostly) silent laughter behind the passengers in front….
On the way back we spotted a coffin in cave up a steep cliff face, passed under ornamental and suspension bridges, a suspended walkway, pretty waterfalls, and waved to the monkeys on rocks.
We were disappointed to note that passengers barely looked at gorges. Chinese do not seem to understand nature-based tourism in the way Aussies do, no quiet, no peaceful reflection, no gliding and listening to birdsong, sounds of bush. We were subject to incessant blaring (non-stop shopping channel??) all way back to where we’d parked on wharf in carpark for evening.
After the day we'd had, it wasn't surprising some of our team had headaches, most in need of alcohol! Wanderoos needed a rest, no conversation, maybe to read a book before bed BUT city folk came down to wharf for aerobics, dancing, twirling whipping tops, and calisthenics to music - seems the carpark becomes the town square at dusk! We had stalker-talkers until well after dark, surprise fireworks, and went to sleep bathed in city lights...
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