Day 131 - Dalanzadgad plains to Yolyn Am - Thu 4 Jul

Day 131 - Dalanzadgad plains to Yolyn Am - Thu 4 Jul
Hot sunrise, brushed out yet more dust from camper, no water to spare to clean windscreen. All animals losing their fur, moulting winter coats even dogs - look mangy. Startled a long-eared hare into running parallel along trench. Arrived Yolyn Am ice canyon, oasis in desert, 3km walk in. 

Parked under Siberian Elm, plants low fir/ cypress bushes thick at base of hills. Purple and yellow wild flowers, one patch of bright purple daisies with bright orange centres. The emerald green circular patches growing up slopes is juniper, with small silvery conical nuts. Rocky outcrops forming canyon walls as go deeper. BoyRob found opaque blue patches in one rock alongside stream (copper?) Mongolian kids at home on ponies, wildly riding bareback - dismounting fluidly to scamper up slopes and collect plants/ leaves. 

After pretty walk, found small ice mounds up against shaded sides of valley, dark with sand and grit - well camouflaged! Freezing cold stream gurgled and fell over rocks through canyons, suddenly disappeared as canyon veered at right angles (went underground I guess) Birds not frightened of hikers, sit in sun on rocks. Hundreds of the small mammals – Jerboa/ pika/ giant gerbils... 

On way out we took rough side road and came across a vodka and drug party on top of hill, unfortunately the museum called…. and what a surprise it was - poorly taxidermied but scary creatures of the Gobi (snarling grey wolf, circling vultures and brooding owls), as well as dinosaur fossils/ eggs, petrified wood. The Gurvansaikhan people sold souvenirs, petrified wood and globular rocks in ger shops.

 

Camped in lee of hill in range overlooking vast plains and watched shadows lengthen during slow dusk, colours moving from pinks to mauves to deep purples. Had hearty beef stew, savoured rich meat, veg and gravy, drank red wine and finished with chocolate – does life get any better than this?? Yes! Heard soft sounds on grasslands behind camper and turned to see herd of horses padding past quietly behind us, snorting softly, with manes glowing in setting sun.