Day 133 - Mandal Ovoo Sum to north of Arvaykheer - Sat 6 Jul

Day 133 - Mandal Ovoo Sum to north of Arvaykheer - Sat 6 Jul

Pleasant morning, but already warm at 6am. Cut up bruised peaches to add to muesli, but left our stale bread and bruised apples for passing goats. Cranes walking away from us leisurely under power lines. Pigeons startling out of grass along track. Falcon on small mud mound. And, a rare sight in bird eating Asia – an actual whole flock of small birds overhead.

Arrived at Ongi, to explore Ongiin Khiid, monastery and university ruins, young monks blowing horn call to prayer from turret. A couple of monks remain on site, we were allowed into temple to watch prayer chanting, striking drum and blowing shell. An old monk showed us around, and mimed his story about being smuggled out in a box with airholes as a small child escaping from Russian purges – he later returned to take up residence in spite of monastery not able to be sustained once river diverted for mining. 

Miles and Marina drank from well said to cure stomach ills. GirlRob stood very still to take long distance photo of ibex on hill - then found it was a statue, and had to wear payout by fellow travellers! Then down the road, a find - the “Secrets of Ongin” ger camp and its fine restaurant. Knuckle bones/ jacks game on tables. Ate traditional beef pastry parcel with pickled red cabbage - delicious. Have to order "Lipton" or “Black Tea” if want western tea, rather than traditional mares milk tea (which if fermented becomes alcoholic). Had great display of masks and traditional costumes including Tsaagan Ovgon the Lord of land, water, sky and livestock who brings happiness as well as Durteggadva (skull) Lord of Death, who guards borders of monastery's and protects from burglary (he didn't do such a good job for Ongiin Khiid). Watched documentary in restaurant over early lunch - some pretty parts yet to come in Northern Mongolia. Noted rock paintings and ruins of a glass city nearby but would take rest of day to hike/ find, and we just can't do everything.

Day stayed overcast, so much cooler than yesterday. Stopped briefly at Saikhan Ovuu and got emails - poor Jon and Jude are at Dalanzadbad having done their differential (and maybe transfer case) and awaiting truck to transport their LandRover to Ulaanbaatar for repair. Stopped on rise for afternoon tea and to yet again check/ reorient direction, headed towards and through Bayangol. 

Steppes became gradually greener, tracks less sandy, more prone to ruts from recent bogging. Arrived Arvaykheer, fuelled and bakery, looked around town - decidedly the most colourful rooftops of all towns seen to date.

Said goodbye to Gobi, and crossed into neighbouring amaig, paying toll as entered. Rain clouds threatened as passed old Soviet military base and pulled in to ruins for camp. Found military uniform buttons and shell casings before rain found us. Changed sim cards back to TravelSim for phone calls to Australia, had light dinner, editing photos, brief shower and bed...