Thursday, 16 June 2016

Thurs 16 Jun 2016. Akyaka to Dalyan to Termessos

Thurs 16 Jun 2016. Akyaka to Dalyan to Termessos
Wanderoos were not at all refreshed on waking - stray dogs in packs had barked incessantly through night, setting off the domestic dogs travelling with their owners.  Wearily we reflected (once again) that it was a good thing that we don't carry a gun onboard… Heard from our Danish friend that the barking happens every night and strays are tagged, ergo sanctioned by government, but not collected, fed or euthanised. So why tag them, you’d have to ask?? Showered in van rather than share 3 showers with 40-ish (mostly tenters) through park.
Decided to skip Marmaris, another overcrowded waterfront -on maps there was no obvious parking at ferry terminal to go to Rhodes for the day. We did the sums - travel to town, resolve parking issue, wait/catch ferry 1.15hrs each way, so not that much time left to explore old medieval city and surrounding sites of interest. We consoled ourselves with thought that we've planned to go to another Greek Island, Crete, for four days next month.

Picked up groceries at a Carrefour and continued east to Dalyan to view the weathered facades of Lycian Rock Tombs (dating back around 400BC). The river was narrow in the township and the tombs were spectacularly close, high on rock walls on opposite bank, so we didn't need a boat to see them across the Cayi River after all. The tombs with their carved symbols were for prominent citizens and the possessions they wanted to take with them to the afterlife. They were carved into the rock high up so the winged creature who would come to carry them on their journey would have easy access.

Uh-oh! Something tells me we've come to a tourist town...

The township was a hive of boat-related tourism for "BBQ cruises" to nearby conservation areas, turtle beach, mud baths, lake fishing etc. Watched an obviously sad ceremony where a local group surrounded with flowers a mannequin they had painted and dressed in a bikini - we could only surmise it related to the drowning death of a young woman. It seemed somehow poetic to conduct their ritual under the gaze of the ancient rock tombs.

Later we followed directions of woman from municipal office (because the tourism office next door was unmanned: "my friend maybe here 1 hour, maybe 2") through narrow streets and stalls behind the mosque, to the post office to buy the Turkey toll road ticket. We had to traipse back to truck in carpark to take its photo to show size; a kind young man with good English from shop opposite helped translate between us and officer to fill in form (needed passports, rego papers and international drivers licenses). Successfully done, BoyRob took the opportunity to have a haircut (says he definitely feels cooler) and have 2x pants repaired (for 5tl - less than $2). Finished with lunch of pancakes and fresh fruit soaked in Cointreau - yum! 

That must take a long time to collect...

Off again in heat, found it cooler to travel with window down. Stopped for fuel at Korkuteli, persevering with language to find out their water was potable enough for drinking (yes if boiled!), so filled our tank. Water becoming more challenging, public taps now manned by old fellows wanting money, area more arid with bald mountains and wide alluvial swaths down to valleys.  Must be underground water though, because towns have significant horticultural activity. 

No camping allowed at Termessos carpark where we’d hoped to be ready for cool early morning walk of ruins in the morning, so drove into nearby shady pine forest. Rinsed clothes and hung to dry - shouldn't take long in this heat. Both lethargic in heat, and lack of sleep last night, so just had crackers with cheese and fruit for dinner. Noises from pines, but no wind, birds or squirrels. Cicadas helped drown the traffic sounds from highway. 

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