Bye bye Bilbao - nice visit! Overcast, took turnoff to Guenica, heart of Basque Country, looking for tree memorial, but again streets too narrow and no parking. Drove picturesque route through Ondorroa and Itzear, looping up coast road through pine and eucalypt forest, with glimpses of ocean and rocks below. Hazy day, hard to tell sea from sky.
Basque architecture more like France and Germany than rest of Spain. Amazed to see so many signs, banners and graffiti to "Return Basques Home" (some with guns). Followed coast road to Getaria, lunched leaning on lookout rails next to Hitchcock Hotel, before joining highways and myriad of tolls (we paid them back with handfuls of brown coins...)
Welcome to France, to rain and to plump hawks on fences. On towards Zarautz, along pretty coastline and through interesting tunnels.
Arrived Orthez, drove past seedy overcrowded Aires to more civilised looking campground €15 - but no hot water in ladies, no seats on toilets, no paper.... Sigh...